I try to hit up all the new spots opening up in NYC on a weekly basis. I need to stay on the pulse. But, let us not forget some of NYC's dining institutions. Old stalwarts that have been open for years, and serving up fine fare to our every changing desires. Chef Kurt Gutenbrunner's West Village Austrian spot Wallse, opened July 14, 2000. It has been on my list of places to check out since it has opened. It took me thirteen years, but I finally had the pleasure of dining at this NYC Austrian restaurant institution. Wallse's modern Austrian fare, is solid, perfectly executed, and quite good.

An amuse of a tuna tartare cone started the meal off just right.

Quark Spatzle ($18) with Braised Rabbit, Root Vegetables, and King Oyster Mushrooms was delicious.

Snail Ravioli ($16) with Brussels Sprouts, Parsley, Sweet Garlic, and Cipollini Onion was fabulous.

Another amuse of a scallop with black truffle and wild rice was outstanding. True Love.

I rarely eat venison, so I ordered the Parsley Crusted Venison ($36) with Root Vegetables and Elderberry Sauce. The venison itself was juicy, tender, and true perfection. A tasty little deer. That parsley crust was awful, and should not have been on that piece of meat-ruined the dish. In looking at their menu online, it seems they have taken the parsley crust off- I hope so!

Poached Maine Lobster ($36) with Quark Spaetzle, Kohlrabi, and Tomato-Paprika Sauce, was splendid.

As we all want to try the latest and hottest new restaurants in NYC, we must not forget the solid joints that last the test of time. They last, because their food and ambiance is great. Wallse is one of these spots, and will be around for a long time.

Wallse
344 West 11th St. (and Washington)
New York, NY 10014
212-352-2300
www.kg-ny.com/wallse